Sunday, December 02, 2007

McCalls 5466

Yippee, I finished another fall/winter dress! I was immediately drawn to McCalls 5466 View B when it first came out earlier this fall. I've seen several beautiful versions of View A (the pencil skirt) but I'm a sucker for flowy skirts.

I'm not really quite sure how to describe the fabric I used. It's some sort of spongy brown tweed. I found it at G Street Fabrics in their remnants section for two dollars a yard. At that price, how could I not buy it? I did a burn test and concluded that it's made of polyester fibers. Whatever it is, it's incredibly soft, comfortable and has lovely drape.

I don't normally make muslins but for some reason I did with this dress. I'm glad I did! This pattern did not fit me right out of the envelope. I had to make several alterations to the bodice. First, the pattern as drafted is very narrow at the waist. I added about an inch at the waist so I could breath when it was zipped up. Next, I lowered the dart point so it ended three fourths of an inch below my bust point rather than right at it.

I also made several sleeve alterations. The sleeve as drafted has about three inches of ease and is very tight around the arm. I read in Power Sewing that most RTW garments only have an inch and a half of ease in the sleeve cap. With that in mind (and also because I stink at easing in sleeves) I took out an inch and a half from the sleeve cap and added an inch and a half to the arm band.

I think these simple alterations resulted in a great fitted garment. I am very happy with how this dress turned out. It's perfect for work paired with a cardigan and because of the short sleeves I'll be able to wear this into the spring. I'd recommend this pattern to others but I'd stress making a muslin first. I think I'm going to make muslins more often now!

15 comments:

Rebekah said...

that dress is adorable and it fits you so well! It looks like the perfect addition to a fall/winter wardrobe. I've always wanted to sew clothes, but I'm a little lacking in the follow directions to a t category, so I always botch something up along the way.

I love the colors that you've used in your granny squares up in your banner!

Cherie said...

Hi, I'm coming out of the woodwork to tell you how I love your dress. That view was my favorite also. Your sleeve alteration came out perfect! You could add any color you want to accessorize with, that is so fun with a dress like this!

Katie Jean said...

that looks amazing! I am so impressed!! I really need to learn how to make some nice dresses!!

which g street?? I went to the one in rockville and I thought it was really overpriced. They had some flea market fancy for $9.99 a yard!

Christina said...

I really like your choice of fabric. Oh, now I really want to make this pattern!

Lashell said...

Nice dress. I made the pencil version. For some reason no matter how much I eased I still got a slight puff. I have to try your technique next time.

UK lass in US said...

Great job! I've been planning on making myself some clothes, but it's been about a year now and I'm still procrastinating...

Anonymous said...

Great job with this dress! I made the mistake of not making a muslin first, so my first attempt actually became my muslin because I couldn't zip it up at the waist. I also added about an inch to the waist, and with the sleeves I made a box pleat at the top instead of easing (you can see a similar one on another dress at http://kathleens-sewing.blogspot.com/2007/10/vogue-8145.html) - I find I'm doing box pleats at all my sleeve tops now - it just seems to sit flater and be quicker than trying to ease.

Anyway, well done - looks fantastic.

Anonymous said...

I love this dress and your fabric choice! I am working on this pattern right now - and I did have a sneaking suspicion that the sleeves will be too tight - arghh! I tissue fit the skirt and bodice, and also ran into all sorts of issues with the bodice. Unfortunately, I didn't tissue fit the sleeves. Hopefully I can make it work - I don't think I have enough fabric left to recut.

renee said...

Oh, that's very cute. Thanks for the heads up on the muslin.

marirob said...

SO amazing! Your projects are truly inspirational. You've given me so many great ideas that I can't wait to try out!

Kelly said...

wow! another great dress! this is adorable and looks like the muslin was a great idea with this perfect fit! -kb

Tearsa Smith said...

Very cute!!!

narcissaqtpie said...

it turned out great! I love it.

Anonymous said...

this is incredible-- thanks for detailing your alterations. Very helpful. I recently made the view with the pencil skirt and short sleeves. I am going to do a review on the sewing patterns website if you're interested in seeing...

KnittingBetsy said...

I really like your work on this dress. It turned out very well and the fit looks great! I need to get over feeling too chicken to make pattern alterations.
Thanks for sharing,
Betsy